LG Washer Leaking Water When Not in Use? It’s Almost Always the Water Valve

LG washer is leaking when turned off, caused by a faulty water inlet valve

By Steel City Appliance Repair

If your LG washer is leaking when turned off, you are not alone — finding water under the machine even when it has not run a load is one of the most common LG washer complaints. Before you panic about a major repair, the culprit is almost always the water inlet valve — and it’s an easy, inexpensive fix you can do yourself in under an hour. This guide walks you through how to access the valve, confirm it’s the source, and swap in a new one.

Why Your LG Washer Is Leaking When Turned Off

The water inlet valve is connected directly to your home’s water supply, so it has water pressure on it at all times — even when the machine is unplugged and idle. When the valve body cracks or its internal seals fail, water seeps out continuously, which is why you see a puddle even when you haven’t run a load. In other words, an LG washer leaking when turned off is almost always pointing you straight at a failing inlet valve. A washer that only leaks during a cycle usually points elsewhere (hoses, pump, tub seal), but a leak that happens while the machine sits unused points squarely at the inlet valve.

First, Rule Out the Hoses

Before replacing anything, check the fill hoses where they connect to the back of the machine. Sometimes a connection has worked loose and simply tightening the hose couplings stops the leak. If the hoses are tight and dry but you still have water, move on to the valve.

Tools & Parts You’ll Need

  • LG Water Inlet Valve (check your model #): Amazon link (affiliate link)
  • Screwdriver / Nut Driver Set: Amazon link (affiliate link)
  • Hose Clamp Pliers: Amazon link (affiliate link)
  • Adjustable Wrench (for the fill hose): Amazon link (affiliate link)

Step 1: Unplug the Machine

Always unplug the washer before you start. The water inlet valve carries power whenever the machine is plugged in, so this is a safety must.

Step 2: Remove the Top Panel

There are two screws on the bottom of the top panel at the rear — you do not need to remove the top screws. Take out those two bottom screws, slide the top panel back, then lift it up to gain access to the water valve inside.

Step 3: Confirm the Leak

With the top off, you’ll be able to see the water valve. Look for water leaking from the valve body — that confirms it’s the source.

Step 4: Turn Off the Water and Remove the Hose

Shut off the water supply first, then disconnect the fill hose from the valve.

Step 5: Remove the Valve

There’s a single screw holding the valve assembly in place. Remove it, and the whole piece comes out. The valve then lifts straight up out of its metal bracket — it can be tight, but it does come free.

Step 6: Swap the Three Water Lines One at a Time

The valve has three clamps, one for each water line. Move each line from the old valve to the new valve one at a time — this keeps you from crossing the connections and mixing up the lines.

Step 7: Reassemble and Test

Put the clamps back on, seat the new valve in the metal bracket, secure it, reinstall the screw, reconnect the fill hose, and turn the water back on. Plug the machine in and check for leaks. You should be good to go.

Watch the Full Repair Video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kuFyvksFIo4

Cost Breakdown

ItemCost
LG water inlet valve~$25–$40
Professional repair call-out$150–$250
Your savings$110–$225

FAQ

Why does my washer leak only when it’s not in use? Because the inlet valve is always under household water pressure. A failed valve seal drips constantly, independent of whether the machine is running.

Can I just tighten the hoses instead? If the leak is at a loose hose connection, yes. But if water is coming from the valve body itself, the valve must be replaced.

Still Having Issues?

Drop your LG model number in the comments on the video — I respond to every comment as quickly as possible. Subscribe to Steel City Appliance Repair for weekly DIY appliance repair tutorials.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Links above may earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support the channel and keeps these tutorials free.

Samsung Washer Not Washing? How to Enter Quick Test Mode (WF45K6500AV/A2)

By Steel City Appliance Repair

If your Samsung washer isn’t washing and you want to find out what’s actually wrong, the fastest first step is to run the built-in Samsung washer quick test mode. It puts the washer through an automatic self-test and reports an error code that points you to the failed component. Here’s exactly how to enter it on the WF45K6500AV/A2 (and many similar Samsung front-loaders).

How to Enter Samsung Washer Quick Test Mode

First, set the delay hours to 17 hours.

Next, press and hold the Start button until “tS” (test) appears on the display.

Then, once it appears, press the Start button again, and the washer will begin the automatic test.

Reading the Result

Once the Samsung washer quick test mode finishes, the test cycles through the machine and displays an error code. For example, in the video it returned a 3C2 error, which indicates a problem with the inverter. Whatever code you get, look it up against Samsung’s error-code list to identify the part that needs attention.

Tools & Parts You’ll Need

  • Digital Multimeter (for component testing): Amazon link (affiliate link)
  • Samsung Inverter / PCB (if your code points to it — match your model #): Amazon link (affiliate link)
  • Screwdriver / Nut Driver Set: Amazon link (affiliate link)

Watch the Video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwSRoCs7bUk

FAQ

What does a 3C2 error mean on a Samsung washer? It points to the inverter. However, you should confirm with component testing before ordering parts.

Will quick test mode work on other Samsung models? The exact entry steps can vary by model, but the delay-hours + hold-Start method shown here works on the WF45K6500AV/A2 and many similar front-load models.

Still Having Issues?

Drop your Samsung model number in the comments on the video — I respond to every comment as quickly as possible. Subscribe to Steel City Appliance Repair for weekly DIY appliance repair tutorials.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Links above may earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support the channel and keeps these tutorials free.

Whirlpool Cabrio Dryer Making Noise? It’s the Idler Pulley

By Steel City Appliance Repair

Is your Whirlpool Cabrio dryer making noise — a loud or grinding sound while it runs? One of the most common culprits is a worn-out idler pulley. In the short video below I pulled this one apart and found the idler pulley in rough shape — definitely not how that part is supposed to look.

Note: This is a quick diagnostic walkthrough showing the failed part. For your specific model, follow the manufacturer’s panel-removal procedure to safely access the belt and idler pulley.

What Causes a Whirlpool Cabrio Dryer Making Noise: The Idler Pulley

The idler pulley keeps tension on the dryer’s drive belt so the drum turns smoothly. Over time the pulley’s bearing wears out, and it starts making noise — squealing, grinding, or rumbling — as the drum spins. A worn idler pulley won’t look smooth and round anymore; the wear is usually obvious once you see it.

How to Confirm It

If your Whirlpool Cabrio dryer making noise has you stumped, open the dryer up and inspect the idler pulley. If it’s visibly worn, grooved, wobbling, or no longer spinning freely, that’s your noise. Replacing the idler pulley (and inspecting the belt while you’re in there) typically resolves it.

Tools & Parts You’ll Need

  • Whirlpool Cabrio Idler Pulley (check your model #): Amazon link (affiliate link)
  • Drive Belt (inspect/replace while you’re in there): Amazon link (affiliate link)
  • Nut Driver / Socket Set: Amazon link (affiliate link)

Watch the Video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_6zHRGn53Q

FAQ

Can I keep using the dryer with a noisy idler pulley? It’s not recommended — a failing pulley can eventually seize or throw the belt, leaving you with a drum that won’t turn at all.

Should I replace the belt too? It’s smart to inspect the belt while the dryer is open, since you’ve already done the disassembly.

Still Having Issues?

Drop your Whirlpool Cabrio model number in the comments on the video — I respond to every comment as quickly as possible. Subscribe to Steel City Appliance Repair for weekly DIY appliance repair tutorials.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Links above may earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support the channel and keeps these tutorials free.

Bosch Dishwasher E07 Error? Replace the Spray Arm Tube (Zeolite Fan Fix)

Bosch Dishwasher E07 error

By Steel City Appliance Repair

Seeing a Bosch dishwasher E07 error? That E07 code points to a problem with the Zeolite drying system — specifically, water getting where it shouldn’t. The good news is it’s a fixable, roughly $50 DIY repair if you’re comfortable taking the sump apart. Here’s exactly what’s happening and how to fix it.

What the Bosch Dishwasher E07 Error Actually Means

On Bosch dishwashers with Zeolite drying, the Bosch dishwasher E07 error is triggered when water gets into the Zeolite heater container and runs down into the Zeolite fan. The usual cause is a crack or hole forming at the base of the spray arm tube, which lets water travel into the fan area. The fix is to replace the entire spray arm tube assembly.

Tools & Parts You’ll Need

Step 1: Suction Out the Water

Grab a wet/dry vac and a towel. Create suction on the piece on the side that goes down into the fan to pull out as much standing water as you can before disassembly.

Step 2: Start Taking the Sump Apart

Remove the two Torx screws that hold the sump piece down. There are also two clamps holding it in the middle and two clamps at the top — release those.

Step 3: Remove the Bottom Piece from the Spray Arm Tube

Take the bottom piece off the spray arm tube. This part is difficult to remove — a small screwdriver helps work it loose.

Step 4: Install the New Spray Arm Tube

The old and new spray arm tubes are identical, but the new one comes with a small piece that fits over the base to help prevent the leak from recurring. Install the new tube and that protective piece.

Step 5: Reassemble

Reattach the clips in the middle, put the screws back in, and tighten the other two screws down around the sump. That completes the repair for the E07 Zeolite fan error.

Watch the Full Repair Video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYdkgU8EhT0

Cost Breakdown

ItemCost
Spray arm tube assembly~$40–$60
Professional repair call-out$200–$300
Your savings$140–$260

FAQ

Will the E07 come back after this fix? The new spray arm tube includes a protective piece over the base; in my experience I’ve never had one fail again after installing it.

Is the new part different from the old one? The tube itself is identical — the only addition is the small protective piece that fits over the base.

Still Having Issues?

Drop your Bosch model number in the comments on the video — I respond to every comment as quickly as possible. Subscribe to Steel City Appliance Repair for weekly DIY appliance repair tutorials.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Links above may earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support the channel and keeps these tutorials free.

Maytag Centennial Washer Lid Lock Light Blinking? Diagnose & Replace It Yourself (Save $315)

By Steel City Appliance Repair

Is your Maytag lid lock light blinking? If your Maytag Centennial washer won’t start and the lid lock light just blinks (often with a clicking sound) when you press Start, the lid lock assembly has likely failed. This guide shows you how to confirm it using the washer’s built-in diagnostics mode, then replace the part yourself — saving around $315 over a service call.

The Symptom: Maytag Lid Lock Light Blinking

When you press the start button, the lid won’t lock — the Maytag lid lock light blinking is the giveaway — you hear it click, but it never engages, so the cycle never begins.

Step 1: Find the Tech Sheet

Look up underneath the very front of the machine (as if you’re looking back down toward your toes). There’s a tech sheet and an envelope tucked in there. It tells you how to enter diagnostics mode and read the error codes.

Step 2: Enter Diagnostics Mode

Using the cycle knob, turn it left at least three clicks, then right three clicks, left one click, then right one click — the lights will flash. Turn it one more time to display the most recent error code, and again to step through any additional codes.

Step 3: Read the Error Code

Match the code against the error list in the manual from the envelope. In this case it showed a lid lock fault. The manual also details a full lid-lock test procedure using a digital multimeter on the control board. If you can’t perform those tests, and your symptoms match (blinking light, clicking, no lock), it’s almost certainly the lid lock — go ahead and replace it.

Tools & Parts You’ll Need

  • Maytag/Whirlpool Lid Lock (Door Lock) Assembly: Amazon link (affiliate link)
  • Screwdriver / Nut Driver Set: Amazon link (affiliate link)
  • Digital Multimeter (for testing): Amazon link (affiliate link)

Step 4: Disconnect the Wiring

Take the wires out of the little clip first (it’s hard to remove the clip from the control board otherwise), then unplug the wires from the control board. Pop the little clips and push the whole harness down through the machine.

Step 5: Free the Harness and Remove the Lock

There are two metal clips holding the long black harness underneath the lid — this is the trickiest part. Then remove the two screws holding the lock to the clip on top; that drops it down. Disconnect the harness from those clips.

Step 6: Prep the New Lock

The new door lock assembly is identical to the old one. Route the plug back through to hold it in place. The new lock comes with a clip — remove that and instead reuse the old clip already mounted on the board to run the wires through and lock it down, then plug it into the board.

Step 7: Install the New Harness Clips

Clip the new harness into the metal clips underneath (again, the most difficult part). The new lock comes with two strike pieces — a gray one (for a different model with a bigger strike) and a white one. Use the white one; it slides into place on top of the lid.

Step 8: Reassemble

Seat the lid lock back in place with the two screws going up into the post. Put the console back: lock the rear clips, then push down on each front corner until it locks into place.

Watch the Full Repair Video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Swu5EnmAmk8

Cost Breakdown

ItemCost
Lid lock / door lock assembly~$40–$70
Professional repair call-out~$355
Your savings~$315

FAQ

Do I have to do the multimeter test? No. If you can’t test the control board points, and your symptoms match (blinking lid lock light, clicking, won’t lock), replacing the lid lock is the right call.

How do I get into diagnostics mode again? From off, turn the knob left 3 clicks, right 3, left 1, right 1 until the lights flash, then turn again to read error codes.

Still Having Issues?

Drop your Maytag model number in the comments on the video — I respond to every comment as quickly as possible. Subscribe to Steel City Appliance Repair for weekly DIY appliance repair tutorials.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Links above may earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support the channel and keeps these tutorials free.

Whirlpool Dryer Won’t Start? How to Test & Replace the Thermal Fuse ($15 Fix)

Whirlpool Dryer wont start
Testing a Whirlpool dryer thermal fuse with a digital multimeter
Testing the thermal fuse with a digital multimeter — a good fuse beeps, a blown fuse gives no reading.

Is your Whirlpool dryer not starting? The power comes on, but when you hit the start button the drum won’t turn? A bad thermal fuse is almost always the culprit — and it’s only about $15 to fix yourself. In this guide I’ll walk you through exactly how to access the thermal fuse, test it with a digital multimeter, and replace it step by step.

What Is a Thermal Fuse and What Does It Do?

A thermal fuse is a small safety device that sits on top of the blower housing inside your dryer. Its job is to monitor heat — if the dryer gets too hot, the thermal fuse blows and cuts power to the motor, preventing a fire. When it blows, the dryer will have power (lights and controls work) but the drum won’t spin at all when you press Start.

The fuse is a one-time-use component — once it blows it must be replaced. It cannot be reset.

Why Does the Thermal Fuse Blow?

The most common cause is a clogged dryer vent. When lint builds up and blocks the vent, hot air can’t escape to the outside — the dryer overheats, and the thermal fuse blows to prevent a fire. If you just replace the fuse without cleaning the vent, it will blow again. You can hire a company to clean the vent, or do it yourself with a vent cleaning kit that attaches to a drill.

Tools You’ll Need

  • 1/4″ Nut Driver
  • 5/16″ Nut Driver
  • Digital Multimeter

⚠️ Always unplug your dryer before working on it.

Step 1: Remove the Top Back Panel

Start by removing the two screws on the top back panel. Once those are out, slide the panel back, then lift up and move it out of the way to expose the inside of the top of the dryer.

Step 2: Remove the Front Console

There are two screws along the front console (the user interface panel). Remove those and the console will just pop up. You’ll also find three screws along the top — remove those as well.

Step 3: Disconnect the Door Switch Wire Harness

Before removing the front panel, locate the door switch wire harness and unplug it. This is critical — when you pull the front panel off, that wire needs to be disconnected first or it will get damaged.

Step 4: Remove the Front Panel

Remove the four screws along the bottom of the front panel. They come out pretty easily. Once those are out, the entire front panel assembly comes off, giving you full access to the inside of the dryer.

Step 5: Locate the Thermal Fuse

With the front panel removed, you can now see the blower housing. There are two small components sitting on top of it side by side:

  • The one on the right is the thermistor (temperature sensor)
  • The one on the left is the thermal fuse — the one you need to test and replace

Step 6: Test the Thermal Fuse with a Digital Multimeter

Set your digital multimeter to the continuity setting. Many meters will beep when there is continuity — that’s what you want to hear on a good fuse.

  • Good fuse: The meter beeps and gives a resistance reading — the fuse has continuity and is working fine.
  • Blown fuse: No beep, no resistance reading — the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced.

This test takes seconds and confirms the thermal fuse is the problem before you spend any money on parts.

Step 7: Install the New Thermal Fuse

Plug the wires back onto the new fuse. Note that there is a small slit on one side of the fuse and a screw hole on the other. When placing the fuse back onto the blower housing, make sure that small slit sits down into the blower housing correctly before tightening the screw.

Step 8: Reassemble the Dryer

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. A few important things to keep in mind:

  • Put the lint filter cover back on — the little piece slides into place.
  • Before putting the front panel back on, thread the door switch wire harness through the small opening in the panel.
  • The front panel clips hold along the top — make sure they seat properly.
  • Replace all screws on the front panel, front console, and top back panel.
  • Don’t forget to plug the door switch wire harness back in. If this connector isn’t plugged in, the dryer still won’t start even after the repair.

Applies To

This repair applies to Whirlpool dryers with a thermal fuse on the blower housing, and covers many common Whirlpool, Maytag, and Kenmore dryer models.

Shop the Parts & Tools Used

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Links above may earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support the channel and keeps these tutorials free.

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How to Fix the 5D / SD / F9E1 Error on a Whirlpool Front-Load Washer (WFW75HEFW0)

How to fix the 5D/SD error
Whirlpool WFW75HEFW0 front-load washer showing 5D SD F9E1 drain error
Whirlpool WFW75HEFW0 showing the 5D / SD drain error — clean the drain pump filter to fix it

Is your Whirlpool front-load washer flashing a 5D, SD, or F9E1 error code and refusing to spin? You’re in the right place. If you’re wondering how to fix the 5d sd f9e1 error on a Whirlpool front load washer wfw75hefw0, this guide is here to help. This error means your machine detected a long drain time — and in the vast majority of cases, the culprit is a clogged drain pump filter. The good news: you can fix this yourself in under 15 minutes with basic tools.

In our latest YouTube tutorial, we walk through the complete repair step by step on a Whirlpool WFW75HEFW0, including how to enter diagnostics mode to confirm and clear the error code.

What Does the 5D / SD / F9E1 Error Mean?

The 5D or SD error (they look the same on the display) stands for “suds detected” or a drain fault, depending on context — but on Whirlpool front-loaders it almost always triggers alongside the F9E1 long drain error. This code fires when the washer can’t drain within a set time window. The machine stops mid-cycle, leaves water in the drum, and won’t go into spin.

The #1 cause: a blocked drain pump filter. Lint, small clothing items (especially bra underwire pads), coins, and debris build up over time and restrict water flow through the pump.

Tools You’ll Need

Step-by-Step: How to Fix the 5D / F9E1 Error

1. Unplug the Washer

Always disconnect power before working on any appliance. Do not skip this step.

2. Access the Back Panel

Pull the washer away from the wall. Remove the screws running down both sides of the back panel — the ones recessed inside the panel don’t need to come out, only the ones on the panel face itself. Leave the top screw in last so you can slide the panel off easily, making reinstallation simpler.

3. Locate the Drain Pump Filter

Once you have access to the bottom of the back, reach in from below. The filter is on the right-hand side of the drain pump. It’s a cylindrical cap you can see and feel.

4. Drain the Water First

Before pulling the filter, use your wet/dry vac to suck out as much water as possible. If the drum is full of water, you’ll have a significant amount come out when you remove the filter — taking it slow will save you a mess.

5. Remove and Clean the Filter

Use channel-lock pliers to break the filter loose — don’t squeeze too hard or you risk cracking the plastic, just enough to get it turning. Once it starts moving, unscrew by hand the rest of the way. Clean out whatever you find — bra pads are the single most common culprit, along with coins and miscellaneous debris.

6. Reinstall the Filter

The filter only seats one way. Line it up correctly and screw it all the way in until it stops — the small locking tab will click into place.

7. Enter Diagnostics Mode & Clear the Error Code

On the WFW75HEFW0, enter diagnostics by pressing three buttons in sequence — three times each. Once in diagnostics mode:

  • The third button advances through stored error codes
  • Scroll to confirm you see F9E1 stored (the long drain error)
  • Press and hold the third button to clear all codes

You can also use diagnostics mode before the repair to confirm the error, and after to verify the machine is running clean.

Applies To

This repair applies to the Whirlpool WFW75HEFW0 and other Whirlpool front-load washer models that display the 5D, SD, or F9E1 error code.

Did This Save You a Repair Bill?

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Need Help? We Come to You.

If you’re not comfortable doing the repair yourself or run into a different issue, Steel City Appliance Repair serves Vestavia, Mountain Brook, and Homewood, Alabama. We’re locally owned, licensed, and insured with 10+ years of experience. Contact us today to schedule a repair.

GE Dishwasher H20 Error? Here’s the Fix That Works Every Time

GE dishwasher H20 error

By Steel City Appliance Repair


Is your GE dishwasher flashing an H20 error and shutting off right after it fills with water? You’re not alone — this is one of the most common GE dishwasher problems we see, and the good news is it’s almost always caused by one small, inexpensive part: the pressure switch.

In this post I’ll walk you through exactly what causes the H20 error, why the quick fix doesn’t last, and how to replace the pressure switch yourself in under 30 minutes — no experience needed.

What Does the GE Dishwasher H20 Error Mean?

The H20 error code on a GE dishwasher means the appliance detected a water supply or water level issue. When this code appears, the dishwasher typically fills with water normally, shuts off before starting the wash cycle, refuses to complete a full cycle, and leaves dishes dirty.

Affected models include: GDT665SSN3SS and many other GE and GE Profile dishwasher models from the past several years.

The Root Cause: A Failing Pressure Switch

The pressure switch is a small sensor that monitors water pressure inside the dishwasher. When the pressure switch fails or becomes clogged, it can’t send that signal — so the dishwasher shuts down and throws the H20 error code.

Why Cleaning It Isn’t Enough

Many repair guides suggest cleaning the pressure switch. This can work temporarily, but in my experience the switch fails again within a few weeks or months. I now replace the pressure switch every single time. It’s a $10–$15 part and it solves the problem for good.

What You’ll Need

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This helps support the channel and keeps these tutorials free.

Step-by-Step Fix

Step 1: Turn Off the Power

Disconnect the dishwasher from power. Either unplug it or flip the breaker for the kitchen circuit.

Step 2: Remove the Kickplate

Remove the two screws on the bottom kickplate panel and set it aside.

Step 3: Locate and Replace the Pressure Switch

The pressure switch is a small round component near the bottom of the dishwasher, connected to a thin hose. Unplug the wire connector, disconnect the hose, and pull the old switch out. Connect the hose to the new switch first, then plug in the wire connector.

Step 4: Test Before Reassembling

Restore power and run a short wash cycle before putting the kickplate back. Watch for leaks underneath. If all good, reassemble and run a full cycle.

Watch the Full Repair Video

👉 GE Dishwasher H20 Error SOLVED — Watch on YouTube

Cost Breakdown

ItemCost
Replacement pressure switch~$10–$15
Professional repair call-out$150–$250
Your savings$135–$235

Still Having Issues?

Drop your dishwasher model number in the comments below and I’ll help you troubleshoot. Subscribe to Steel City Appliance Repair for weekly DIY tutorials.

Whirlpool French Door Refrigerator Not Making Ice? Here’s What to Check First

Whirlpool French door refrigerator not making ice.

By Steel City Appliance Repair

Is your Whirlpool French Door Gold Series refrigerator stopped making ice? Before replacing the ice maker, watch this. In most cases this problem comes down to one of two things: a clogged water filter or a fault detected during the ice maker’s diagnostic cycle — both of which you can check and fix yourself in under 30 minutes.

Applies to: WRF736SDAM14 and other Whirlpool Gold Series French Door refrigerator models.

Why Your Whirlpool Refrigerator Stopped Making Ice

The most common cause by far is a clogged or expired water filter. When it becomes clogged, water flow to the ice maker slows to a trickle or stops entirely. Other common causes include the ice maker switched off accidentally, a frozen fill tube, a faulty ice maker module, freezer temperature too high, or a water inlet valve not opening properly.

Step 1: Replace the Water Filter First

Before running any diagnostics, replace the water filter if it hasn’t been changed in the last 6 months. This single step fixes the ice maker problem in a large percentage of cases and takes about 2 minutes.

👉 Find the correct replacement water filter for this model on Amazon (affiliate link)

Not sure which filter fits your model? Look up parts by model number here.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This helps support the channel and keeps these tutorials free.

After replacing the filter, give the ice maker 24 hours to start producing ice before moving on to diagnostics.

Step 2: Run Ice Maker Diagnostics

If replacing the water filter didn’t solve the problem, run the refrigerator through diagnostics mode to test the ice maker directly. On most Whirlpool French Door Gold Series refrigerators, press and hold the specific button combination for your model. The display will change to indicate diagnostics mode and the refrigerator will cycle through its self-test.

What to Watch For

During the diagnostics cycle the ice maker will go through its full sequence. Watch and listen for the ice maker motor running, the ice ejector arms moving, water filling into the ice mold, and any error codes on the display. If the ice maker completes the full cycle, the mechanism is working and the problem is water supply related — pointing back to the filter or water inlet valve.

Watch the Full Repair Video

👉 Whirlpool French Door Gold Series — Check Ice Maker in Diagnostics Mode

Quick Troubleshooting Guide

SymptomMost Likely CauseFix
No ice, water dispenser also slowClogged water filterReplace filter
No ice, water dispenser works fineIce maker module or frozen fill tubeRun diagnostics
Ice maker runs but no ice dropsFrozen fill tubeDefrost with hair dryer
Ice maker totally silentIce maker switched offCheck on/off switch on ice maker arm

Cost Breakdown

ItemCost
Replacement water filter~$15–$25
Replacement ice maker module (if needed)~$40–$60
Professional repair call-out$150–$250
Your potential savings$125–$235

Still Not Making Ice?

Drop your model number in the comments below and describe what you’re seeing — I’ll help you figure out the next step. Subscribe to Steel City Appliance Repair for weekly DIY appliance repair tutorials.

GE Refrigerator Not Cooling and Making a Clicking Noise? It’s Probably the Control Board

Ge refrigerator not cooling and clicking

By Steel City Appliance Repair

If your GE refrigerator has stopped cooling and you’re hearing a clicking or relay-cycling sound, this specific combination of symptoms points to one culprit almost every time: a failing main control board. This is a DIY-friendly repair that takes about 20 minutes and costs a fraction of a service call.

Why a Failing Control Board Causes Clicking and No Cooling

The main control board is the brain of your GE refrigerator. When the board begins to fail, it often causes a relay on the board to rapidly cycle on and off — creating that distinctive clicking sound. As a result, the board also loses the ability to properly signal the compressor to run.

Symptoms of a Failing GE Control Board (WR55X10942)

One control board causes many different symptoms. All of the following can be caused by the same failing WR55X10942 control board:

  • Refrigerator not cooling or barely cooling
  • Clicking or relay-cycling sound coming from the fridge
  • Evaporator fan motor not running
  • Compressor not starting
  • Blank or no display on the control panel
  • Fridge running but freezer not freezing

Which GE Models Use the WR55X10942?

The WR55X10942 is used across a wide range of GE and GE Profile refrigerator models. Check your model number on the label inside the fridge and cross-reference it with the part listing.

👉 Order the WR55X10942 GE Control Board on Amazon (affiliate link)

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How to Diagnose a Bad GE Refrigerator Control Board

First, listen for clicking. A rapid clicking or relay-cycling sound that repeats every few seconds is a strong indicator. Check the compressor at the back bottom — if it’s clicking and stopping rather than running continuously, the board is likely failing. Next, listen to the evaporator fan — if completely silent while the fridge is on, the board may have lost the ability to power it. Finally, look at the display — a blank or flickering display is another sign of control board failure.

How to Replace the GE Refrigerator Control Board

Step 1: Unplug the Refrigerator

Always disconnect power before working on any appliance. Pull the fridge away from the wall and unplug it.

Step 2: Access and Replace the Board

The control board is located at the back of the refrigerator in a protective cover panel. Remove the panel screws, photograph all wire harness connectors, disconnect them, unscrew the board, and install the new one. Reconnect all harnesses, replace the cover panel, and plug the fridge back in. Give it 2–4 hours to reach full temperature.

Watch the Full Repair Video

👉 GE Refrigerator Not Cooling and Clicking — Control Board Fix

Cost Breakdown

ItemCost
WR55X10942 Control Board~$40–$60
Professional repair call-out$200–$350
Your savings$160–$310

Still Having Issues?

Drop your GE model number in the comments below — if the clicking persists after replacement, a secondary component like the compressor or start relay may also need attention. Subscribe to Steel City Appliance Repair for weekly DIY appliance repair tutorials.