Month: May 2026

Is your Whirlpool dryer not starting? The power comes on, but when you hit the start button the drum won’t turn? A bad thermal fuse is almost always the culprit — and it’s only about $15 to fix yourself. In this guide I’ll walk you through exactly how to access the thermal fuse, test it with a digital multimeter, and replace it step by step.

What Is a Thermal Fuse and What Does It Do?

A thermal fuse is a small safety device that sits on top of the blower housing inside your dryer. Its job is to monitor heat — if the dryer gets too hot, the thermal fuse blows and cuts power to the motor, preventing a fire. When it blows, the dryer will have power (lights and controls work) but the drum won’t spin at all when you press Start.

The fuse is a one-time-use component — once it blows it must be replaced. It cannot be reset.

Why Does the Thermal Fuse Blow?

The most common cause is a clogged dryer vent. When lint builds up and blocks the vent, hot air can’t escape to the outside — the dryer overheats, and the thermal fuse blows to prevent a fire. If you just replace the fuse without cleaning the vent, it will blow again. You can hire a company to clean the vent, or do it yourself with a vent cleaning kit that attaches to a drill.

• 🔧 Dryer Vent Cleaning Kit
• 🔧 Drill (for use with the vent cleaning kit)

Tools You’ll Need

• 1/4″ Nut Driver
• 5/16″ Nut Driver
• Digital Multimeter

• 🔧 Screwdriver/Nut Driver Set
• 🔧 Digital Multimeter
• 🔧 Replacement Thermal Fuse (~$15)

⚠️ Always unplug your dryer before working on it.

Step 1: Remove the Top Back Panel

Start by removing the two screws on the top back panel. Once those are out, slide the panel back, then lift up and move it out of the way to expose the inside of the top of the dryer.

Step 2: Remove the Front Console

There are two screws along the front console (the user interface panel). Remove those and the console will just pop up. You’ll also find three screws along the top — remove those as well.

Step 3: Disconnect the Door Switch Wire Harness

Before removing the front panel, locate the door switch wire harness and unplug it. This is critical — when you pull the front panel off, that wire needs to be disconnected first or it will get damaged.

Step 4: Remove the Front Panel

Remove the four screws along the bottom of the front panel. They come out pretty easily. Once those are out, the entire front panel assembly comes off, giving you full access to the inside of the dryer.

Step 5: Locate the Thermal Fuse

With the front panel removed, you can now see the blower housing. There are two small components sitting on top of it side by side:

• The one on the right is the thermistor (temperature sensor)
• The one on the left is the thermal fuse — the one you need to test and replace

Step 6: Test the Thermal Fuse with a Digital Multimeter

Set your digital multimeter to the continuity setting. Many meters will beep when there is continuity — that’s what you want to hear on a good fuse.

• Good fuse: The meter beeps and gives a resistance reading — the fuse has continuity and is working fine.
• Blown fuse: No beep, no resistance reading — the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced.

This test takes seconds and confirms the thermal fuse is the problem before you spend any money on parts.

Step 7: Install the New Thermal Fuse

Plug the wires back onto the new fuse. Note that there is a small slit on one side of the fuse and a screw hole on the other. When placing the fuse back onto the blower housing, make sure that small slit sits down into the blower housing correctly before tightening the screw.

Step 8: Reassemble the Dryer

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. A few important things to keep in mind:

• Put the lint filter cover back on — the little piece slides into place.
• Before putting the front panel back on, thread the door switch wire harness through the small opening in the panel.
• The front panel clips hold along the top — make sure they seat properly.
• Replace all screws on the front panel, front console, and top back panel.
• Don’t forget to plug the door switch wire harness back in. If this connector isn’t plugged in, the dryer still won’t start even after the repair.

Applies To

This repair applies to Whirlpool dryers with a thermal fuse on the blower housing, and covers many common Whirlpool, Maytag, and Kenmore dryer models.

Shop the Parts & Tools Used

• 🔧 Screwdriver/Nut Driver Set
• 🔧 Digital Multimeter
• 🔧 Replacement Thermal Fuse
• 🔧 Dryer Vent Cleaning Kit
• 🔧 Drill (for vent cleaning kit)

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Links above may earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support the channel and keeps these tutorials free.

💡 If this saved you a repair bill, leave a tip — it means a lot!
👉 Venmo: @TheMrFixedIt

Is your Whirlpool front-load washer flashing a 5D, SD, or F9E1 error code and refusing to spin? You’re in the right place. If you’re wondering how to fix the 5d sd f9e1 error on a Whirlpool front load washer wfw75hefw0, this guide is here to help. This error means your machine detected a long drain time — and in the vast majority of cases, the culprit is a clogged drain pump filter. The good news: you can fix this yourself in under 15 minutes with basic tools.

In our latest YouTube tutorial, we walk through the complete repair step by step on a Whirlpool WFW75HEFW0, including how to enter diagnostics mode to confirm and clear the error code.

What Does the 5D / SD / F9E1 Error Mean?

The 5D or SD error (they look the same on the display) stands for “suds detected” or a drain fault, depending on context — but on Whirlpool front-loaders it almost always triggers alongside the F9E1 long drain error. This code fires when the washer can’t drain within a set time window. The machine stops mid-cycle, leaves water in the drum, and won’t go into spin.

The #1 cause: a blocked drain pump filter. Lint, small clothing items (especially bra underwire pads), coins, and debris build up over time and restrict water flow through the pump.

Tools You’ll Need

• Channel-lock pliers — to break the filter loose
• Wet/dry vacuum — essential for removing standing water before pulling the filter
• Screwdriver set — to remove the back panel screws

Step-by-Step: How to Fix the 5D / F9E1 Error

1. Unplug the Washer

Always disconnect power before working on any appliance. Do not skip this step.

2. Access the Back Panel

Pull the washer away from the wall. Remove the screws running down both sides of the back panel — the ones recessed inside the panel don’t need to come out, only the ones on the panel face itself. Leave the top screw in last so you can slide the panel off easily, making reinstallation simpler.

3. Locate the Drain Pump Filter

Once you have access to the bottom of the back, reach in from below. The filter is on the right-hand side of the drain pump. It’s a cylindrical cap you can see and feel.

4. Drain the Water First

Before pulling the filter, use your wet/dry vac to suck out as much water as possible. If the drum is full of water, you’ll have a significant amount come out when you remove the filter — taking it slow will save you a mess.

5. Remove and Clean the Filter

Use channel-lock pliers to break the filter loose — don’t squeeze too hard or you risk cracking the plastic, just enough to get it turning. Once it starts moving, unscrew by hand the rest of the way. Clean out whatever you find — bra pads are the single most common culprit, along with coins and miscellaneous debris.

6. Reinstall the Filter

The filter only seats one way. Line it up correctly and screw it all the way in until it stops — the small locking tab will click into place.

7. Enter Diagnostics Mode & Clear the Error Code

On the WFW75HEFW0, enter diagnostics by pressing three buttons in sequence — three times each. Once in diagnostics mode:

• The third button advances through stored error codes
• Scroll to confirm you see F9E1 stored (the long drain error)
• Press and hold the third button to clear all codes

You can also use diagnostics mode before the repair to confirm the error, and after to verify the machine is running clean.

Applies To

This repair applies to the Whirlpool WFW75HEFW0 and other Whirlpool front-load washer models that display the 5D, SD, or F9E1 error code.

Did This Save You a Repair Bill?

If this tutorial saved you from an expensive service call, consider leaving a small tip — it helps keep these free repair guides coming. Every bit is appreciated!

👉 Tip on Venmo @TheMrFixedIt

Need Help? We Come to You.

If you’re not comfortable doing the repair yourself or run into a different issue, Steel City Appliance Repair serves Vestavia, Mountain Brook, and Homewood, Alabama. We’re locally owned, licensed, and insured with 10+ years of experience. Contact us today to schedule a repair.

By Steel City Appliance Repair

Is your GE dishwasher flashing an H20 error and shutting off right after it fills with water? You’re not alone — this is one of the most common GE dishwasher problems we see, and the good news is it’s almost always caused by one small, inexpensive part: the pressure switch.

In this post I’ll walk you through exactly what causes the H20 error, why the quick fix doesn’t last, and how to replace the pressure switch yourself in under 30 minutes — no experience needed.

What Does the GE Dishwasher H20 Error Mean?

The H20 error code on a GE dishwasher means the appliance detected a water supply or water level issue. When this code appears, the dishwasher typically fills with water normally, shuts off before starting the wash cycle, refuses to complete a full cycle, and leaves dishes dirty.

Affected models include: GDT665SSN3SS and many other GE and GE Profile dishwasher models from the past several years.

The Root Cause: A Failing Pressure Switch

The pressure switch is a small sensor that monitors water pressure inside the dishwasher. When the pressure switch fails or becomes clogged, it can’t send that signal — so the dishwasher shuts down and throws the H20 error code.

Why Cleaning It Isn’t Enough

Many repair guides suggest cleaning the pressure switch. This can work temporarily, but in my experience the switch fails again within a few weeks or months. I now replace the pressure switch every single time. It’s a $10–$15 part and it solves the problem for good.

What You’ll Need

• Replacement GE dishwasher pressure switch — grab the correct part on Amazon here (affiliate link)
• Phillips head screwdriver
• Nut driver (¼ inch)
• 15–20 minutes

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This helps support the channel and keeps these tutorials free.

Step-by-Step Fix

Step 1: Turn Off the Power

Disconnect the dishwasher from power. Either unplug it or flip the breaker for the kitchen circuit.

Step 2: Remove the Kickplate

Remove the two screws on the bottom kickplate panel and set it aside.

Step 3: Locate and Replace the Pressure Switch

The pressure switch is a small round component near the bottom of the dishwasher, connected to a thin hose. Unplug the wire connector, disconnect the hose, and pull the old switch out. Connect the hose to the new switch first, then plug in the wire connector.

Step 4: Test Before Reassembling

Restore power and run a short wash cycle before putting the kickplate back. Watch for leaks underneath. If all good, reassemble and run a full cycle.

Watch the Full Repair Video

👉 GE Dishwasher H20 Error SOLVED — Watch on YouTube

Cost Breakdown

Still Having Issues?

Drop your dishwasher model number in the comments below and I’ll help you troubleshoot. Subscribe to Steel City Appliance Repair for weekly DIY tutorials.

By Steel City Appliance Repair

Is your Whirlpool French Door Gold Series refrigerator stopped making ice? Before replacing the ice maker, watch this. In most cases this problem comes down to one of two things: a clogged water filter or a fault detected during the ice maker’s diagnostic cycle — both of which you can check and fix yourself in under 30 minutes.

Applies to: WRF736SDAM14 and other Whirlpool Gold Series French Door refrigerator models.

Why Your Whirlpool Refrigerator Stopped Making Ice

The most common cause by far is a clogged or expired water filter. When it becomes clogged, water flow to the ice maker slows to a trickle or stops entirely. Other common causes include the ice maker switched off accidentally, a frozen fill tube, a faulty ice maker module, freezer temperature too high, or a water inlet valve not opening properly.

Step 1: Replace the Water Filter First

Before running any diagnostics, replace the water filter if it hasn’t been changed in the last 6 months. This single step fixes the ice maker problem in a large percentage of cases and takes about 2 minutes.

👉 Find the correct replacement water filter for this model on Amazon (affiliate link)

Not sure which filter fits your model? Look up parts by model number here.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This helps support the channel and keeps these tutorials free.

After replacing the filter, give the ice maker 24 hours to start producing ice before moving on to diagnostics.

Step 2: Run Ice Maker Diagnostics

If replacing the water filter didn’t solve the problem, run the refrigerator through diagnostics mode to test the ice maker directly. On most Whirlpool French Door Gold Series refrigerators, press and hold the specific button combination for your model. The display will change to indicate diagnostics mode and the refrigerator will cycle through its self-test.

What to Watch For

During the diagnostics cycle the ice maker will go through its full sequence. Watch and listen for the ice maker motor running, the ice ejector arms moving, water filling into the ice mold, and any error codes on the display. If the ice maker completes the full cycle, the mechanism is working and the problem is water supply related — pointing back to the filter or water inlet valve.

Watch the Full Repair Video

👉 Whirlpool French Door Gold Series — Check Ice Maker in Diagnostics Mode

Quick Troubleshooting Guide

Cost Breakdown

Still Not Making Ice?

Drop your model number in the comments below and describe what you’re seeing — I’ll help you figure out the next step. Subscribe to Steel City Appliance Repair for weekly DIY appliance repair tutorials.

By Steel City Appliance Repair

If your GE refrigerator has stopped cooling and you’re hearing a clicking or relay-cycling sound, this specific combination of symptoms points to one culprit almost every time: a failing main control board. This is a DIY-friendly repair that takes about 20 minutes and costs a fraction of a service call.

Why a Failing Control Board Causes Clicking and No Cooling

The main control board is the brain of your GE refrigerator. When the board begins to fail, it often causes a relay on the board to rapidly cycle on and off — creating that distinctive clicking sound — while also losing the ability to properly signal the compressor to run.

Symptoms of a Failing GE Control Board (WR55X10942)

One control board causes many different symptoms. All of the following can be caused by the same failing WR55X10942 control board:

• Refrigerator not cooling or barely cooling
• Clicking or relay-cycling sound coming from the fridge
• Evaporator fan motor not running
• Compressor not starting
• Blank or no display on the control panel
• Fridge running but freezer not freezing

Which GE Models Use the WR55X10942?

The WR55X10942 is used across a wide range of GE and GE Profile refrigerator models. Check your model number on the label inside the fridge and cross-reference it with the part listing.

👉 Order the WR55X10942 GE Control Board on Amazon (affiliate link)

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This helps support the channel and keeps these tutorials free.

How to Diagnose a Bad GE Refrigerator Control Board

Listen for clicking. A rapid clicking or relay-cycling sound that repeats every few seconds is a strong indicator. Check the compressor at the back bottom — if it’s clicking and stopping rather than running continuously, the board is likely failing. Check the evaporator fan — if completely silent while the fridge is on, the board may have lost the ability to power it. Check the display — a blank or flickering display is another sign of control board failure.

How to Replace the GE Refrigerator Control Board

Step 1: Unplug the Refrigerator

Always disconnect power before working on any appliance. Pull the fridge away from the wall and unplug it.

Step 2: Access and Replace the Board

The control board is located at the back of the refrigerator in a protective cover panel. Remove the panel screws, photograph all wire harness connectors, disconnect them, unscrew the board, and install the new one. Reconnect all harnesses, replace the cover panel, and plug the fridge back in. Give it 2–4 hours to reach full temperature.

Watch the Full Repair Video

👉 GE Refrigerator Not Cooling and Clicking — Control Board Fix

Cost Breakdown

Still Having Issues?

Drop your GE model number in the comments below — if the clicking persists after replacement, a secondary component like the compressor or start relay may also need attention. Subscribe to Steel City Appliance Repair for weekly DIY appliance repair tutorials.

By Steel City Appliance Repair

If your LG top load washing machine is overflowing or keeps filling with water even after you’ve unplugged it, the cause is almost always one failed part: the water inlet valve. Replacing it yourself is straightforward and inexpensive.

Why Your LG Washer Won’t Stop Filling With Water

The water inlet valve is an electrically controlled valve that opens to allow water into the washing machine and closes when the correct water level is reached. When the valve fails — usually due to a worn internal diaphragm or debris buildup — it can get stuck in the open position and water flows freely regardless of what the control board tells it to do.

The Key Clue: Water Flows Even When Unplugged

If water continues flowing into the washer even after you unplug it from the wall, the valve has mechanically failed. Since the valve is electrically controlled, unplugging the machine should stop all water flow immediately. If it doesn’t, the valve is stuck open and must be replaced.

What to Do Immediately If Your Washer Is Overflowing

1. Turn off the water supply valves behind the washing machine — turn both hot and cold valves clockwise until they stop
2. Unplug the washing machine from the wall
3. Mop up standing water immediately to prevent floor damage and mold

What You’ll Need

• Replacement LG water inlet valve — get the correct part on Amazon here (affiliate link)
• Phillips head screwdriver
• Pliers
• Towels

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This helps support the channel and keeps these tutorials free.

How to Replace the LG Top Load Washer Water Inlet Valve

Step 1: Unplug and Disconnect Water Supply

Make sure the machine is unplugged and both water supply valves are fully closed. Disconnect the hot and cold water hoses from the back of the machine.

Step 2: Access the Water Inlet Valve

On most LG top load washers the water inlet valve is located at the back of the machine near the top. You may need to remove the back panel to access it fully.

Step 3: Disconnect and Remove

Take a photo of the wire harness connectors before disconnecting. Press the tab on each connector and pull firmly to disconnect. Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the internal hoses using pliers to release the clamps.

Step 4: Install the New Valve and Test

Connect the internal hoses to the new valve and secure the clamps. Mount the new valve and reconnect the wire harness connectors. Reattach the external water supply hoses, turn the supply valves back on slowly, plug the machine back in and run a short wash cycle.

Watch the Full Repair Video

👉 LG Top Load Washer Won’t Stop Filling — Watch the Full Fix

Cost Breakdown

Still Having Issues?

Drop your model number in the comments and describe what’s happening — I’ll help you diagnose the next step. Subscribe to Steel City Appliance Repair for weekly DIY appliance repair tutorials.

By Steel City Appliance Repair

If your Whirlpool refrigerator isn’t cooling well but the freezer still seems okay — and especially if you’re seeing water leaking out of the ice dispenser into the fridge — open your freezer and look at the back wall. If it’s covered in a thick layer of ice, you have a defrost problem, and this guide will walk you through exactly how to diagnose and fix it.

This repair covers the Whirlpool French Door refrigerator (model WRX735SDHZ00) but applies to many other Whirlpool French Door models with the same symptoms.

What’s Actually Happening — The Full Diagnosis

Here’s the chain of events: the defrost bi-metal fails and tests open when it should be closed. Without a working bi-metal, the defrost heater can’t activate. The evaporator coils freeze over completely. With the evaporator frozen solid, the evaporator fan can’t circulate cold air into the refrigerator compartment. The fridge warms up while the freezer stays cold. The ice in the ice bin starts to melt and leaks out through the front of the ice dispenser.

Every one of those symptoms traces back to one small failed part: the defrost bi-metal.

Understanding the Defrost Bi-Metal

The defrost bi-metal is a temperature-sensitive switch that controls the defrost heater. When it fails in the open position, the defrost heater never activates and the evaporator freezes over.

Important: On this Whirlpool model, the defrost bi-metal is bundled with the evaporator fan motor. You can’t buy the bi-metal by itself — you need to order the fan motor assembly, which includes the bi-metal.

What You’ll Need

• Whirlpool evaporator fan motor (includes defrost bi-metal): order on Amazon here (affiliate link)
• Digital multimeter: Amazon link (affiliate link)
• Replacement water filter: Amazon link (affiliate link)
• Steamer (to safely defrost the frozen evaporator coils): Amazon link (affiliate link)

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This helps support the channel and keeps these tutorials free.

Step 1: Run Diagnostics Mode

Run the fridge through its built-in diagnostics mode to confirm the bi-metal is the problem. If the bi-metal tests open while the evaporator is clearly frozen, it has failed and needs to be replaced.

Step 2: Remove the Freezer Drawer

Pull the drawer out to the fully open position, lift the front slightly and pull forward to disengage the slides, then lift the entire drawer assembly out. Watch the video below for the exact technique.

Step 3: Defrost the Frozen Evaporator Coils

Use a steamer to carefully melt the ice — this is faster and safer than a hair dryer and won’t risk damaging plastic components. Have towels on hand to absorb the meltwater. Don’t use anything sharp to chip the ice — you can easily puncture a refrigerant line. This step takes 15–20 minutes.

Step 4: Replace the Bi-Metal and Fan Motor

Remove the freezer back panel screws and pull it forward to expose the evaporator coils and fan motor. Disconnect the bi-metal and test it with your multimeter on continuity setting — it should show continuity when cold. If not, it has failed. Remove the old fan motor assembly and install the new one. Reinstall the freezer back panel and drawer, restore power, and give the fridge 4–6 hours to return to normal temperature.

Watch the Full Repair Video

👉 Whirlpool Refrigerator Not Cooling + Leaking Water — Full Fix

Cost Breakdown

FAQ

Can I just defrost the evaporator without replacing the bi-metal? You can, but the evaporator will freeze over again within a few weeks because the root cause hasn’t been fixed. Always replace the bi-metal when you defrost.

How often should the defrost cycle run on a Whirlpool refrigerator? Most Whirlpool refrigerators run a defrost cycle every 8–12 hours. If the bi-metal is working correctly you should never see ice buildup on the evaporator.

Still Having Issues?

Drop your Whirlpool model number in the comments on the video — I respond to every comment as quickly as possible. Subscribe to Steel City Appliance Repair for weekly DIY appliance repair tutorials.

By Steel City Appliance Repair

A Samsung top load washing machine that won’t drain is one of the most frustrating appliance problems — you open the lid to find clothes sitting in a tub full of water. Before you order a new drain pump or call a repairman, there’s an important first step: check the pump for a clog.

In a large percentage of cases, a sock, coin, hair tie, or small piece of debris lodged in the drain pump is the entire problem — and clearing it takes less than 15 minutes.

Two Reasons a Samsung Top Load Washer Won’t Drain

1. Something is stuck in the drain pump. Small items that escape the drum can get lodged in the pump impeller and prevent it from spinning. The pump motor may still be running fine, but the blockage stops water from moving through.

2. The drain pump itself has failed. If the pump is clear and the washer still won’t drain, the pump motor has likely burned out or seized and needs to be replaced.

What You’ll Need

• Hose clamp pliers — grab them on Amazon here (affiliate link)
• Wet/dry vac — essential for draining the water first (affiliate link)
• Towels and a shallow pan or bucket

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This helps support the channel and keeps these tutorials free.

Step-by-Step Fix

Step 1: Drain the Standing Water First

Use a wet/dry vac to remove as much water as possible from the drum before accessing the pump. Have towels on hand — some water will spill.

Step 2: Access the Drain Pump

Unplug the washing machine. On Samsung top load washers the drain pump is typically at the bottom of the machine. Tip the washer forward or lay it on its back to access it — have someone help with this step.

Step 3: Check for a Clog

Use hose clamp pliers to slide the spring clamps back on the hoses, then pull the hoses off the pump. Shine a flashlight into the pump inlet and look for any debris. Check that the impeller spins freely by hand. If it spins freely with no visible debris, the pump is likely good.

If the impeller is seized, won’t spin, or the pump housing is cracked, the pump needs to be replaced.

Step 4: Reassemble and Test

Reattach both hoses, stand the washer back upright, plug it in, and run a drain/spin cycle. If the washer drains completely — you’re done. Total cost: $0.

Watch the Full Repair Video

👉 Samsung Top Load Washer Not Draining — Full DIY Fix

Cost Breakdown

FAQ

My Samsung washer won’t spin either — is it related? Yes. On Samsung top load washers, a drain failure often prevents the spin cycle from completing. Fix the drain issue first and the spinning problem will likely resolve itself.

How do I know if the pump motor is burned out vs. just clogged? If the impeller spins freely by hand and there’s no debris, but you heard the pump humming during the cycle, the pump is likely burned out.

Still Having Issues?

Drop your Samsung model number in the comments below and describe what you’re seeing. Subscribe to Steel City Appliance Repair for weekly DIY appliance repair tutorials.